The Italian Archaeological Activities in Cyprus


THE EXCAVATIONS OF THE ITALIAN MISSION
IN THE "SANCTUARY OF APOLLON AT TOUMBALLOS" AT NEA PAPHOS


Prof. F. Giudice, Università di Catania - Cattedra di archeologia e storia dell'arte Greca e Romana.


In 1998 the chair of  Archaeology and History of  Greek art of the University of Catania, in collaboration with the Italian  Archaeological  School at 
Athens, opened an excavation in Paphos.
The area covers one quarter of the dimension of  Paphos, one of the greatest eastern cities of the  Hellenistic and Roman age, which for a long time 
was the capital of the island. Until then the agora  (with notable Odeion and Asclepieion),  some great houses decorated with splendid mosaics and, 
in part, the theatre had been explored.

In the vast, still unexplored zone (the N-W part of the city), the mission from Catania          
opened excavations in the area of the so-called "Garrison's Camp", where hypogaeic
rooms of a sanctuary of Hellenistic and Roman age,  otherwise known as  the temple
of Apollon at Toumballos were visible.

 


The sanctuary reveals a noteworthy complex of underground rooms, excavated in the
rock, and, to the east, a long access dromos and a staircase leading down to underg-
round rooms and corridors. The impressive complex presents a first  circular  room, a 
long corridor and other three rooms which open in the west wall of  the  corridor  (the
first  semicircular,  the  second   circular,  the  third  quadrangular).  The  underground
sanctuary may be also accessed from a second dromos (in the western part)  situated
opposite the first. An exedra opens in the northern  wall of  this dromos,  followed by
another corridor  and  other  rooms,  now  partially  filled  with  earth.  Remains  of  a
building with an apse were visible to the west of the hypogaeic sanctuary.

 


The excavation has allowed us to bring to the  light  the  long  access  dromos  to  the
sanctuary of Hellenistic and Roman age.  So  far  more  than  seventy  meters  of  this
dromos proceeding from west-to east have been discovered. However, it seems that
after this point it changes its direction and  goes  south. This  corridor,  less  than  one
metre wide, hid the access to the underground rooms from the sight of the faithful and
thus contributed to increasing the mystery of the cult practised  there. The  north  wall
of the dromos still stands but the southern wall was moved in the Early Christian  age,
and its ashlars, except the first two, were used for  other  constructions.  The  central
part of the wall has preserved its original polygonal structure, but, elsewhere, there is
considerable evidence of reconstruction, for which big ashlars, with mouldings, from 
other old monuments were sometimes used.


Remains of a building with an apse were visible to the west of the hypogaeic sanctuary.
The  new  religious  building,  the  subject  of  careful  investigations,  is  acquiring  the 
features of an early Christian martyrium.  It  presents  a  rare  iconography:  a  double
narthex, the nave and two apses fitted in the walls of the nave. The wide space delimi-
ted by them gives access to a "crypt", formed, in the east and west walls, by two rock
arms of the corridor of the pagan sanctuary, and in the north side, by a purpose - built
wall  (in this way a  perfect  symbiosis  between the pagan sanctuary and the Christian 
basilica was realised). The investigations carried out under the foundations of this buil-
ding at the end of IV century.
The partial excavation in the crypt has revealed two phases. In the later one, around a 
small  quadrangular  structure  filled  with burned earth, vases were found that seem to 
make up a "service". A lamp, a blowl, a jug, a pitcher and an amphora, unfortunately in
fragments, were also discovered. In the earth inside the  amphora  a  bit of  very  rough
textile and a small fragment of bone were found. 


This singular discovery suggested an interesting hypothesis connected with the period 
of the Christianisation of Cyprus, and, particularly, with the time when the cult of Saint
Hilarion was alive in Paphos This saint preached and died at the end of the IV century
(see Hieron. Vita Hilarionis).


Up to now there has been no epigraphical evidence that allows us to identify the temple
of  Apollon  at Toumballos, with the one where Saint Hilarion preached. The first instal-
lation of the small basilica, built with and above the  walls of  the  pagan  building,  dates
back to the years immediately following the death of the anachorite, who at first was bu-
ried in Paphos and  then  brought  back  Gaza by his disciples. This small basilica repre-
sents,  very  probably, a "memorial" connected with the life and the miracles of the saint, 
and the table  "service"  set in the crypt, in the VII century phase, could be connected to 
his memory. Topographical inhvestigations, based on testimony of Saint Jerome, (who in
secundo ab urbe miliario spoke of Hilarion's first stay in Cyprus and his preaching " near
the ruins of a very ancient temple", and during his second stay at some twelve miles from 
the sea), have allowed us to advance a hypothesis: the hypogaeic sanctuary in "Garrison's
Camp"  was  the  one  used  for  evangelisation, and the cave at Episkopi, in the hills near
 Paphos, quoted by local tradition as Saint Hilarion's, the place where the saint retreated
to, on Esichius' advice and to avoid the crowds of pilgrims.


In connection with the small basilica, an entire area of the sanctuary from the end of the 
IV century AD until the time of Arab incursions (mid VII century AD) has undergone a
new arrangement. Rooms, some of which decorated with mosaics, were opened on the 
inner side of the north wall of the dromos. Further investigations will  clarify  if  here  the
Christian quarter has indeed been discovered. It would be counterpoised to  the  pagan
quarter, in the SW zone of the city where great patrician houses of this period, decorat-
ed with the beautiful mosaics of Aion, Theseus killing the minotaur, Orpheus, the birth of
Achilles and the triumph of Dionysos can still be admired.


In the last two excavation campaigns, the digging of the dromos gave very important 
results. The dromos, after 72 meters in direction W-E, turns south, and goes under-
ground. There is an impressive view of underground chambers and  corridors,  wich
will be explored in future. The quantity of material, wich  fills  the  hypogaeic  rooms,
obliges us to proceed on all fours, but the archaeological wealth of the deposit is tes-
tified to by an enormous capital decorated with rosettes and lotus buds/flowers, which
partially obstructs the passage of the corridor. The corridor has a vaulted roof to allow 
the faithful to proceded upright. A complicated system  of  hypogaeic  rooms  and  corri-
dors is connected with the underground and built parts  of the sanctuary. Everything here
allows us to comphrend the greatness and the richness of the so called Apollon-at-Toum-
ballos sanctuary, which appears to be one of  the greatest  and most  complicated  hypo-
gaeic sanctuaries in the Mediterranean area.